Hollow Jewelry:

Chains and Bracelets:

Pros:

• Some heavier hollow chains can wear well if you take special care of it.
• You get a larger appearing chain for less money.

Cons:

• They break too easily.
• They wear out too quickly.
• You shouldn’t put charms or pendants on them.

My Opinion: Buying a hollow chain (like the light, hollow rope) is like renting a chain for a year or two especially if you want to hang a pendant or charm from it. You are much better off buying a solid chain even if you have to get one that is smaller in size or save up longer for it. The hollow chain will simply wear out too fast.

Hollow Earrings:

Pros:

• Don’t take too much wear.
• Light in weight which is usually needed because solid earrings would most often be too heavy.

Cons:

• They can be easily dented, crimped or twisted. Often cannot be repaired satisfactorily.

My Opinion: Obviously, many earrings could not be solid as they would weigh too much for the ear. If taken care of properly hollow earrings shouldn’t be a problem. Keep them away from other jewelry when they are not being worn.

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Hollow Rings

Hollow rings are usually, but not always, men’s rings. Some of them are very expensive because they’re set with larger diamonds.

Above: This ring is a much sturdier type of hollow ring. It holds up pretty well to sizing and wear.

Pros:

• They weigh less so you pay less.
• They appear larger.

Above: When you see holes that go almost to the bottom of the shank it should raise a red flag! Keep looking.

Cons:

• They dent easily. These dents are hard or impossible to repair satisfactorily.
• The stones are often graver-set.
• The shape of the ring doesn’t hold up well if sized too far up or down.

Above: This is a fine example of a solid ring. The holes you see at the top are standard stone holes. Look for this type of construction when hunting for a solid ring.

My Opinion: I would keep looking for a solid ring. If you are going to pay over $2,000 for this ring you might as well spring for a little more and get something that will last.Stay away from any ladies ring that is hollow.  I haven’t seen a quality piece yet.

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Invisible Set Jewelry:

Invisible set jewelry looks great. There can be 36 or more square diamonds with NO metal showing between the stones. How it is done: the diamonds have two ridges cut into the pavilion (bottom side) just below the girdle, on opposite sides. This ridge is then snapped into a thin metal grid which holds the stone in place.

The Invisible Set Ring - Nice to look at but is it too much trouble?

Pros:

• You get a large expanse of diamond without any visible gold holding the stones in place.
• Four squares (see picture below) look like a large diamond for MUCH less money.

Cons:

• Stones may fall out easily.
• Most jewelers can’t reset the stones. It will probably have to be sent out for 6 to 8 weeks.
• If the item is a ring, it shouldn’t be sized more than 1/2 size. Is your finger going to stay the same size forever?

Above: Four stone invisible set ring.

My Opinion: The invisible set ring is often very beautiful. I have seen invisible set rings that have gone years without a problem. On the other hand I have seen ring styles with repeated problems. These days you can’t tell if your stones are well set or poorly set. If you really want an invisible set ring make sure you get it ordered in your size. Make sure you get a lifetime diamond replacement policy where the company pays for it. They exist. You usually have to bring the piece in every six months for inspection. If you miss the inspection deadline and lose a stone your out of luck (or out some money, at any rate). If you miss an inspection deadline and don’t lose a stone most companies will allow you to reinstate the policy with a checkup. The larger the expanse (the more diamonds) the more likely you are to lose stones. Make sure you purchase a repair plan, where the company pays for jewelry repairs (they exist, as well).

Some pieces of invisible set jewelry are very well made but many are not. The problem is you can’t tell by looking so make sure you are backed up by warranties and repair plans!

See More Invisible Set Jewelry

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10 Karat Gold Jewelry:

10 karat gold is 41.66% gold, which for the math impaired, is less than 50%. A jewelry sales associate will tell you that is good because it means the gold is harder. It may be negligibly harder but it is also more brittle than 14 karat gold.

Pros:

• Costs less.

Cons:

• More brittle.
• More easily attacked by bleach and bromine.
• Yellow color is even more pale than 14 karat.

My Opinion: Personally I wouldn’t want any item I’m paying for to be under 50% in gold content. I don’t think it is a problem for most items made in 10K (adore rings, promise rings, inexpensive “starter” rings, class rings etc). I think it is more of a personal and financial choice a person has to make. I wouldn’t say not to buy 10K, just not for a mounting that is going to hold expensive stones.

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Emeralds in Engagement Rings or Wedding Bands:

The Emerald is a beautiful gemstone. It is pretty hard at 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale. But it is also one of the more brittle gemstones. You shouldn’t put them in the ultrasonic cleaner nor should you steam clean them. The following Pros and Cons are about Emeralds in the daily worn engagement rings and/or wedding bands:

Pros:

• Pretty color or someone’s birthstone?

Cons:

• Emeralds are brittle and don’t hold up as a gem worn on a daily basis. The chip or break easily.
• Most Emeralds are cut to save weight with very rounded bottoms. If channel-set they will get loose OFTEN.
• If a stone is lost, it may be difficult  finding a proper match in color.

My Opinion: Emeralds and wedding bands should not be in the same sentence. Emeralds are beautiful and have an exalted place in jewelry history but I don’t think that place is in wedding jewelry.

Close Out, Red Stripe or Retired Jewelry:

All jewelry stores that carry mass-produced jewelry will, at some point, stop carrying a particular style or item. They will then reduce the price, sometimes drastically. This can result in a good deal for the customer. Or, maybe, a nightmare. It all depends on how well the piece is constructed.

Common Reasons for Discontinuation:

• The piece didn’t sell well.
• It had structural problems above the company threshold for the item to be profitable.

You have to think about how the piece is made. What do I mean when I say “structural problems.” After all, this isn’t a building. What I mean: Are the stones set well? If they are not, they may fall out (see invisible set and graver-set). Is the metal heavy enough to stand up to daily wear (see hollow rings)? Check the thickness of the shank, the size of the prongs, whether or not the prongs cover the stones and the width of the sidewalls. If it didn’t sell well and is structurally sound then you may have a bargain. If it has any of the red flag items listed next, you should pass on the item.

• Does it have invisible-set diamonds (or colored stones)? Red Flag.
• Does it have graver-set stones? Double Red Flag!
• Is it a hollow ring? Red Flag.
• Is it a large cluster ring with many small diamonds? Yellow Flag.
• Is the mounting relatively heavy with well set stones? Green Flag.

Omega Style Chains and Bracelets

The omega style chains and bracelets are semi-flexible. Their construction is usually one or two pieces of gold mesh around which many caps are folded over.

Above: A good jeweler will take the time to create a cap from scratch and try to match the design as best as possible, but expect to pay more for this time consuming repair.

Pros:

• Stylish
• Wider looking bracelet or chain with less weight and less cost.

Cons:

• The mesh underneath the caps can get kinked if you bend it. The mesh wears quickly if not kept clean.
• Once broken the only way to repair the links is to freeze solder the two ends. This means the bracelt/chain will not be flexible in that spot.

My Opinion: If kept clean and taken care of properly these pieces can be enjoyed for many years. Don’t wear your omega to bed, keep it clean and keep it away from other pieces of jewelry. Above all, don’t bend or crimp it. If you are “hard” on jewelry consider some other type.

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Platinum Heads:

A head is the piece that holds a stone. Your typical solitaire engagement ring will have a four or six prong head. In the past ten years platinum has become the metal of choice for larger diamonds (about 3/4 carat and up). As with everything else on this page there are pros and cons.

Pros:

• Platinum lasts a long time without wearing out.
• Platinum has no “spring back” so the bench jeweler can easily get the prongs to lay down on the diamond. White gold has a lot of “spring back” so sometimes it is hard to get the prongs to stay down. If they are up a little the prongs will snag on loose knit clothing.
• Platinum keeps its “white” color without yellowing. It does not need to be rhodium plated to return the “white” color.
• Platinum is not brittle like white gold. You are less likely to break a prong tip off with platinum.
• Platinum is impervious to corrosive chemicals, such as bleach, unlike white gold.

Cons:

• Platinum is softer than white gold. If you are “hard” on your jewelry look for shorter prongs. Long platinum prongs have a tendency to bend much more easily than white gold.
• Platinum is way more expensive. As I write this platinum is about $1200 per ounce while gold is about $600 per ounce. Adding to the cost is the fact that platinum pieces are usually 95% platinum with a 5% platinum family alloy (read expensive) while 14K gold is 58.3% gold with dirt cheap alloys. So, while platinum is about twice as expensive as gold it is also 100% expensive precious metal compared to 58.3% for 14K.

My Opinion: A platinum head is the way to go in most cases. Platinum heads are much safer than white gold heads especially if you happen to expose your pieces to bleach. If you want a very tall 4 prong head it should have a basket-style brace about half way up. The only drawback to platinum is the cost.

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Platinum Wedding Band (High Polish):

Platinum is denser, therefore heavier, than gold alloys. It’s also much more expensive. Platinum is softer than gold alloys but doesn’t wear out as easily.

Pros:

• Platinum doesn’t change color or “yellow” as white gold does.
• Platinum has more value and prestige, if that is important to you.

Cons:

• Platinum is softer than white gold. If the band is too thin it is easy to bend.
• Platinum, because it is softer, will scratch very easily. This is the biggest complaint I hear about the platinum wedding band. It doesn’t keep a shine like gold does. Yes, all wedding bands will get scratched up but platinum does it much faster.

My Opinion: I’ve always been a yellow gold man. For my jewelry I’ve never been big on white gold or platinum. This, of course, means nothing to you. What type of metal your jewelry is is your personal choice. If you want to wear a “white” metal wedding band both platinum and white gold have their drawbacks. White gold will yellow, which requires occasional refurbishing and rhodium plating. Platinum will scratch easier requiring more frequent refurbishing. A side point: platinum is very difficult for some jewelers to get a good polish on. It requires a LOT of extra work and is, therefore, more expensive to work on.

Herringbone Chains and Bracelets:

You don’t see herringbone chains and bracelets as much anymore. One of the reasons is that the thinner styles just did not hold up to daily wear.

Pros:

• A wider, stylish look but fairly light, keeping the price down.

Cons:

• Easily kinked, which can be difficult or impossible to remove.
• Once broken the repair will usually show, being stiff for a short section of the chain.
• While you shouldn’t sleep in any jewelry, herringbones are the worst choice to sleep in!

My Opinion: Herringbones had their day and it seemed everyone had one. And nearly everyone had problems with them. However, a heavier style herringbone, properly cared for can bring many years of enjoyment. Stay away from the light bracelets and chains.

Hollow Ball Jewelry:

Pros:

• Stylish?
• Inexpensive (or should I be more factual and say Cheap?)

Cons:

• WILL break very soon.
• Will not look good after it is repaired. There really isn’t a way to repair these and make them look good.

My Opinion: These types of chains and bracelets are a total waste of your money. STAY AWAY!

Titanium Bands:

Pros:

• Very tough.
• Very lightweight.
• Different in color and look.

Cons:

• Can’t be sized by a jeweler. It must be sent back to the manufacturer who will replace it with a matching ring of the the size you need.
• Even though they’re very hard they scratch fairly easily. They can be re-polished but not as nicely as gold.

My Opinion: As with all jewelry selections, this is a personal choice. Just make sure you know the facts before you buy.